2 Comments on “East Animas

  1. BAM BAM, 5.13c
    Since the newest climbing guide was published, this is the first additional route at East A:
    It was bolted since early 1990’s by someone very less than able and a few people toyed with it after that. Twenty years later, it finally gets climbed by Erik Durgin, who has been establishing plenty of hard climbing in the Durango area. Awesome! It is located just left of Barneys Crack in the Bedrock sector and shares anchors with Barneys. Super high quality rock and climbing. Eighty feet, nine bolts. Set it up with some long draws to ease rope drag and clipping.


    Watch Crystal Crack:
    The all time classic at East A was likely climbed on aid (at least the first pitch) in the mid 1970’s (unknown parties). First free climbed in 1978 by Steve Wunsch, who was visiting from the front range. He called it 5.10+. Sounds about right. It’s interesting that even while East A was a a very young crag, word travelled to one of the centers of the climbing universe, Boulder, where Wunsch was at the forefront. Steve Wunsch onsighted the pitches and the second pitch was said to be the psychological crux. In 1978, cams were just being invented, weren’t widely owned by climbers yet. It is probable that Wunsch used only nuts. Also, there was no sticky rubber yet in 1978.

    Peter Jamieson and Mike Borga?? Late 1970’s. Originally given 5.9 and climbed in EB’s, with nuts.

    Simians to the Sun:
    ’79 or early eighties by Bruce Lella

    early 80’s by Ken Trout.

    Tim Kuss and Dan Foster. Bolts placed on lead.

    Fork in the Road:
    James Williamson and Jared Ogden. Sometime after the FA, someone chopped most of the bolts, including the independent start. It was later replaced by James Williamson, starting from Crime and Punishment at the ledge 30′ up.

    Jailhouse Monkeys (on dope):
    After being arrested for possession of weed, near Moab, Utah, while on their way to Yosemite Valley, Peter Day and Tim Kuss returned to Durango from the Monticello jail and installed this route on lead.

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